Bathroom: Finish Drywall and Paint

21 Nov

While I’ve been doing tile, Jennifer has been sanding drywall, painting, fixing drywall bits that I damage, sanding again, painting again, fixing paint that I pulled off with tape or damaged with grout, sanding and painting again.

diy bathroom drywall paint

Drywall is done!

drywall paint bathroom

First the ceiling...

bathroom drywall paint

Looking awesome

drywall paint

Smooth as a baby's bottom.

We’re going with white, because it looks quite nice with the green tile:

bathroom tile white paint drywall

Painting all finished.

We chose Zinsser Perma-White Mould and Mildew Proof Interior Paint as an added precaution. This bathroom had a mildew problem before we put the fan in. We haven’t had any issues since then, but for roughly the same price it’s worth it. It’s semi-gloss to make it easy to clean.

I bought trim for the door, caulk for the tub, sealer for the grout and masking tape to help with caulking at Home Depot today.


Cost for this Post:

– $42.53 – Zinsser Perm-White Mould and Mildew Proof Interior Paint (4L)
– $10.39 – 2 large rolls of low-stick masking tape
– $21.76 – Door trim
– $16.77 – 3 tubes of Mono Ultra Silicone Caulk
– $34.71 – Grout Sealer (1 pint)
$126.16 – Total with taxes

Bathroom Renovation Main Page


Bathroom: Grout (2 days)

21 Nov

Grout, Day 40 and 41 of the project.

I was pretty nervous (again) about the grout. I’ve read some disaster stories about poor grout jobs, and water leaks and ruined walls and all that sort of thing. But, once more into the breech.

I don’t have many action photos because I was concerned with getting the stuff up and not having it dry before I was done. There are always warnings about not letting the grout haze dry on the tiles, so I was determined not to let it happen.

The grout goes on much wetter and softer than the mortar did. If it’s properly wet enough, grouting isn’t so much about packing grout into each line as much as it is smearing the stuff around and wiping it off. I’m such a micromanager that things like this are hard for me to do. I want to finesse each single joint into place, when the best way to do it is just smear the stuff on in large swoops. I learned quickly, and I found that I really like grouting. It goes on easily, and then when you use the sponge, it forms itself into perfect little lines automatically.

After it has been applied and let to dry a few minutes is the time for finesse. I wiped the walls with the large wet sponge in big strokes, but I also traced out each line and removed lumps and filled in holes

Lesson: Keep a bit of leftover mortar stirred and soft while the stuff on the wall dries, and use your finger to blop some on to a spot that doesn’t look right and use the sponge to wipe it into shape again).

Remember last post, when I said that I was a little unimpressed with how my tile job turned out? Well:

GROUT IS “WOW! THIS TILE IS AWESOME!” IN POWDER FORM.

Every place that I thought the tile looked a little bad is gone. Grout evens out the bad spots, hides the tiny chipped corners, levels out the low spots and makes the whole world seem shiny and full of rainbows. Grout is my new favorite thing to do.

tile project diy grout

Before...

do it yourself bathroom tile grout

... and after!

I was so happy, I went and gathered the whole family to come look. I even put the tub fixtures in place so we could dream about what it will look like soon:

tile grouted tub

If you squint your eyes, you can see what it will look like finished...

On a practical note: one 10 pound bag of caulk (the smallest size they sell) was exactly enough for our tub. The tiles are 8 inches square and the grout lines are 1/8 of an inch wide. I had about a half cup of grout left over.


Cost for this Post:

None.

Bathroom Renovation Main Page


Bathroom: Tiling Day 3 and 4

21 Nov

Days 3 and 4 of Tiling, Days 32 and 33 of the project.

More tile cutting. I installed the bottom row of tiles, a few of which needed an 1/8 of an inch taken off the bottom, and the tiles around the faucet and shower head.

I was in such a rush to get to the tiles around the faucet that I forgot the plan. I started measuring with a full tile in the corner of the tub, marked out the location of the large hole and spent an hour carefully nipping out four tiles. They fit perfectly. Then I realized that we had planned the front wall of the shower to start with a full tile on the outer edge and a cut tile in the corner. Unfortunately there is no way to move the hole in a tile a few inches left. I had to garbage them and start again. Lesson learned. Have a plan, and check it constantly.

I did get the tiles up though:

Tile bathroom renovation holes

Holes cut

Time for more cutting.

diy tile cut bathroom

Cutting and more cutting

Lesson: There was more chipping happening, so I read a bit more and learned that this can be a sign that the water level is low and the blade is heating up. I used a plant watering can to top up the reservoir every few cuts. No more chipping.

Did I mention that using a wet tile saw is messy? That’s not a shadow, that’s the part of me that’s wet through because of the spray coming off the saw. The tile is red adobe underneath, so the water is tinged red-pink. That stain is never coming out…

renovation tile wet saw spray wet

It's nice to be damp when it's below freezing...

That afternoon I did a count and realized that I was going to be a few tiles short (thanks to a few mistakes and the crummy blade in the saw). I also ran out of mortar with about 15% of the job left. Rona bound! While I was there I managed to find the dehumidistat that we’d been looking for.

Tip: Install a dehumidistat. It automatically turns that bathroom fan on when it’s above the set humidity and turns it off when the humidity drops. Lots of people use timers, but you never know how long it’s going to take to dry out, and people often forget to turn the timer on. The dehumidistat is totally automatic. No brainer.

While I was at Rona, I saw a large sign informing me that the tile that was on the shelf was all that there was. Rona is changing tile suppliers, so the stock they have is all they will ever have. I decided to pick up a box of 40, rather than just a few more. This way I’m sure to be able to finish the tub and have a stack left over to put away. If we ever have to do any plumbing work I want to be able to patch the repair with the same tile.

I saved some tile, though, because I needed some thin slivers and I was able to cut one off of each edge of a single tile.

Tile cut twice renovation saw wet

Two cuts per tile

The tile is now finished. Looking at it, I think I’d describe the job like this: It turned out worse than I’d hoped, but better than I’d feared. There are some minor variations in the plane of the tiles (some are in a smidge further than others) and at the corners a couple of lines don’t meet up by about 1/16 of an inch. I’ll reserve judgement until after the grout and caulking are done.


Cost for this Post:

Two trips to Rona

$19.98 — Broan Humidistat
$39.99 — Bag of Mortar
$11.34 — 6 tiles (saw the sign, went home and discussed with Jennifer)
$75.60 — 40 tiles (came back to buy more)
$164.54 — Subtotal with Taxes

Bathroom Renovation Main Page


Bathroom: Tiling Day 2

21 Nov

Tiling Day Two, Day 28 of the project.

With all of the full-sized tiles up, it was time to do some tile cutting.

I was pretty unimpressed with the chipped edges that this cheap tile saw generated, so I looked online to see if others had the same problem or if that was just how tile cuts. General consensus that some minor chipping is expected, but the edges of my tile were pretty bad. The solution seemed to be twofold: get a new blade (the ones that come with the saw stink) or get an expensive saw. Most amateurs seemed to be impressed with the improvement that a new blade gave, so I tried it. I was a little hesitant to buy a $50 blade for a $70 saw, but it was worth it. Night and day. The saw makes beautiful cuts with only minor chipping now. Totally worth the money.

Lesson: Replace the blade in your tile saw with a good one. Trust me.

bathroom renovation cutting tile saw

Cutting from both ends to minimize breakage

Lesson: Toss the fence that comes with the saw. Most of the cuts you make won’t be perfectly straight, but at a small angle because the walls aren’t straight. The fence sucks, and setting it up to cut at an angle is an exercise in frustration. Freehand cut the tiles. The blade is an abrasive, so it’s like using a sander. Very little danger. Freehanding a tile cut feels like using a bandsaw. Keep it straight and you can correct mistakes and make angles and everything you need to do very easily.

My first few cuts were nice and straight and smooth, but I broke the last quarter inch off the tile. The blade vibration just snapped the tile at a crazy angle, ruining the tile. I tried pushing the tile with another tile, and with a piece of wood, so that the blade never left the material, but it didn’t work.

Lesson: Cut about an inch from one side, back the saw blade out and start the cut again from the other side of the tile so the two cuts meet in the middle. There is still a little bit of breakage, (see the below picture, the top edge of the tile has that little nub on it) but you can sand/file/cut this off (I used the tile saw to shave it down) and it’s perfect. At least this way the breakage is on the bad side of the cut, not the side you want.

tile saw cut tile bathroom renovation diy

Cutting tile, notice the little bit on the top cut edge that is easily removed.

Cut tiles often need support when you install them, because there are only tiles on 3 sides and it can slide or sag towards the empty side. I used electrical tape, because it’s stretchy. Pull off a long piece, stick it to the new tile, stretch it and attach it to the tile that’s already in place. Nice and solid.

redo bathroom tile install

Installing the cut tiles along the corner

Installed cut tile int he bathroom reno

Ran out of mortar one tile short...

And, of course, it’s that time of year in Winnipeg. This is the saw the next morning when I got up to continue work:

Tile saw in the winter

First snow. Nice.

I brought it inside to thaw, then brought it back outside to use, because it’s far too messy to use indoors.


Cost for this Post:

$55.99 Bosch Diamond Saw Blade, with taxes

Bathroom Renovation Main Page


Halloween Costumes 2011

21 Nov

It’s a bit late, but I promised some folks I’d post pictures of the kids’ costumes. I watermarked them because I’d rather not have copies spread all over the net without a source. If you want unaltered copies, just email me. Click for the full size version.

Wolverine

Hannah as the comic book character Wolverine

Galadriel

Margaret as Galadriel from Lord of The Rings

Doctor Horrible Costume

Joshua as Dr. Horrible from the show "Dr. Horrible's Sing-A-Long Blog"

Jedi Costume

Timothy as Luke Skywalker from Star Wars: The Return of The Jedi

Despicable Me Minion Costume

Rachel as a Minion from the movie "Despicable Me"

Bathroom: Tiling Day 1

31 Oct

It’s actually Day 24 since the project began, but Halloween costumes and other life-type things interjected. For instance I was ready to start the tiling yesterday, but we had a dinner to go to in the afternoon and Jennifer and the kids were out shopping for last-minute Halloween costume parts so I was looking after the puppy. I also had a few last minute costume parts to work on myself. Such is the way of being a handyman and a dad.

The drywall is now (beautifully, thanks Jenn) done, and I nervously set out to begin the tile. The tub is just under a quarter inch off-level, so I decided to start the tile one row up and fill in the bottom row later (because some of them will need to be trimmed slightly). I made a ledger board out of a very straight piece of laminated pine that I had in the shop, and I cut half-circles out where the tile joints would be, so I could fit the plus-shaped tile spacers in. I screwed the ledger board to the wall using normal drywall screws, making sure it was perfectly level.

DIY tiling renovation

Ledger board attached

You can also see that I put a large dropcloth in the bottom of the tub, and then taped a shower curtain dropcloth to the wall. I don’t want to get mortar all over the tub, or to chip the tub if I drop a tile or a tool.

Mixing the mortar was a challenging start, because I had to figure out how to reduce the mix of “50 pounds of mortar powder to 1.5 gallons of water” to a more manageable size. I wanted to work in smaller pieces. I also didn’t want to have to weigh out the powder each time, I’d prefer a volume.

It turned into a nice coincidence that two empty soup cans full of mortar powder weigh exactly two and a half pounds. A bit of math helped me figure out that one and a quarter cups of water plus two cans of powder were the perfect mix. That amount is about enough for six or seven tiles. It fits nicely in an old honey bucket and is easily mixed by hand with a paint stirring stick.

Lesson: Spend the time to find an easy repeatable recipe for your mortar so you don’t have to weigh or calculate every time you want to use it.

I took a deep breath and started tiling. Things went just great. Exactly as planned. I have watched dozens of videos on Youtube, as well as read a number of articles and how-to’s on this, so it all seemed to come together nicely. It seemed to be a bit messier than the professionals in the video (I have little bits of mortar everywhere) but for the most part things are going great.

The size of the batch of mortar means I mix the mortar, wait ten minutes for it to slake (a chemical reaction that helps it harden), put up a half dozen or so tiles and then go wash off my tools and start again. My tools never build up dried mortar, I get a ten minute break to have a drink or consult with a child about a costume, and then I get back to work again. Perfect.

I worked for about 4 hours, with time in between to go to Walmart for some yellow tape for stripes on Wolverine’s jacket, spray paint some rubber boots white for Dr. Horrible, and a few other odds and ends. All in all I was pretty pleased. I have a half dozen tiles left to go and I’m finished the back wall.

Animated progress gif!

Animated Tile Progress

The day in seconds

Near the top there were a few tiles that wouldn’t sit properly. There was a very minor correction (a gap was a 64th of an inch too wide so the spacer was loose) and the tile would slide back out of place when I corrected it, so I used electrical tape to hold the tile in position until the mortar set. It’s fine now. I used electrical tape because I had some on hand. Masking tape would have done fine.

Bathtub tile diy mortar

Almost halfway done

The almost finished wall at the end of the day:

Homeowner tile bathub diy

The end of the day

(Those tiles at the top are all the same colour, it’s weird lighting and me holding the camera at a weird angle to get the whole wall in that causes some shadows, making a few tiles look darker.)

Next comes cutting the half tiles for either side, and then the end walls. Yay! I’m so happy. So far (knock wood, cross fingers) things are much easier than I expected.


Cost for this Post:

None!

Bathroom Renovation Main Page


Bathroom: Day 11(plus)

25 Oct

Is is now technically Day 20, but there has been only one activity going on in the bathroom: drywall.

Jennifer has been going crazy in there. She is mudding up a storm. I didn’t give her the easiest job, what with seams from concrete board to normal drywall, horizontal butt joints for the 6 inch piece of drywall across the top of the tub enclosure, and the rest of my mediocre drywall installation. She has been doing a great job though and she is almost finished. We’ve been taking our time to let the drywall mud dry properly, and she’s been going back to do more coats to make sure it’s perfect.

It has reached a point that if you close your eyes and run your hand down the wall you can’t feel where the seams are at all. She makes me look so good.

Drywall cement board bathtub

Above the bathtub (see the shower spout)

I broke a piece of drywall right beside the door so there ended up being a patch about 18 inches square right at eye level around the electrical socket. She’s done a brilliant job of making it blend right in.

Drywall by the door

Nice patch

Bathroom wall finished

The finished corner over the toilet

She says she has one day of final work to do and then I will get in to do the tiling. I’m still nervous, but I spent some time working out a plan (you can see the lines pencilled on the concrete board in the top photo). One end of the tub is just under a quarter inch lower than the other, just enough to make the tile lines look wonky if I put the tile flush to the tub. So, I’m going to lay the second row of tile first, sitting on a ledger board nailed perfectly level 8 inches up from the tub. After the tile is dry, I can fit the bottom row into place, doing any trimming I have to to get the small side in place.

I bought a pair of tile nippers for cutting the hole for the faucet, and I bought a carbide wet tile saw. The nippers are nice, but the tile saw is pretty cheapo. I tested it out on a couple of tiles to see if I could trim them to fit level on the bottom row, and it’s pretty cheesy. The fence isn’t square to the blade at all, so each cut requires me to clamp the fence in place after measuring the front and the back. The only thing I will need it for is trimming a few tiles in half and skimming the bottom off of a couple of tiles for that bottom row, so I’m not too concerned. The next level up of saw was at least a hundred dollars more than this one.

This is about the point at which we usually start to slack off and leave a project “mostly done”, but I am quite ready for a good shower in my own bathroom. I’m also quite ready to not have the only toilet in the house be in our bedroom…


Cost for this Post:

1 trip to Home Depot

– $20.99 – Tile Nippers
– $79.99 – Tile Saw
$113.10 – Total with taxes

Bathroom Renovation Main Page


Bathroom: Day 10

25 Oct

The last day before I went back to work. I finished the drywall installation, after making a few notes…

Messages in tethe ll

Messages to the future

I make a habit of leaving love notes to my wife and family inside and major construction that I do. I like to think someone in later years might see them and smile if they ever renovate again.

Done drywall

Finished the walls


Bathtub drywall

Concrete board initial mortar coat


Worlds most beautiful drywall contractor

The world's most beautiful drywall contractor

Initial fill-the-screw-holes coats of mud are up, and now starts the process of taping the seams. I think I’m almost lucky to be going back to work…


Cost for this Post:

None.

Bathroom Renovation Main Page


Homemade R2D2 Costume

25 Oct

My son decided he wanted to be R2D2 for Halloween and it fired up my creative streak. Here’s the finished costume:

Homemade R2D2 Droid

This is the Droid You're Looking for.

Star Wars R2D2 Costume

The costume, with inhabitant

Star Wars Costume

In "Get Candy" mode.


The back of the R2D2 costume

The back

It started out with a $6 collapsible laundry hamper from Walmart. I looked at a number of photographs of R2D2 on the ‘net and used basic algebra and ratios to map out the lines on it. (If the one on screen is 3 inches across, and this line is a half inch in from the side and an inch long, and my hamper is 28 inches across then…). I used masking tape to lay out a single line then I’d trace along the edge of it with a black or blue sharpie, then peel the tape off and lay out the next line. It bled a little bit because of the weave of the nylon material, but not enough to worry about it. It was difficult to keep it all straight because the hamper is so soft and collapsible, and it’s also not square. The top is at an angle when it sits normally. I had to kind of fake it to try to make the panels not look too wonky.

Homemade costume R2D2

One side, in progress


Star Wars Costume R2D2

The other side in progress


R2D2 Costume

The front, in progress

For the dome, we covered a yoga ball in plastic wrap and then covered it in paper mache. It took a lot more paper mache than I thought, but I wanted it to be sturdy. When it was dry enough to hold its shape we let the air out of the yoga ball and removed it and the plastic wrap to let the inside of the dome dry. This took a few days, even with a box fan blowing on it all the time, so make sure to give yourself enough time to get it done.

Star Wars Costume R2D2 paper mache

Putting on the paper mache

When it was dry I cut the bottom straight with a Dremel tool and a cutoff wheel, and then painted it with white primer.

Star Wars costume r2d2

Bottom cut flat and primer on

R2D2′s eye telescope thing was made out of styrofoam insulation. It’s cheap, sturdy and easy to cut with a knife or small saw. I mounted it with hot glue.

star wars costume r2d2 dome telescope

The foam telescope mounted with hot glue

I then spray painted the whole thing silver. Don’t make the same mistake I did: SPRAY PAINT EATS STYROFOAM. The Telescope tube thing is bumpy and textured because of the paint. I didn’t bother replacing it because it was glued on pretty solid and it didn’t look that bad from a few feet away. Still, if you do this, attach the foam bits afterwards.

starwars costume r2d2

The painted dome, and bumpy telescope

I used the same “ratio of screen picture to my model” method to lay out lines for the dome, then I painted it using normal craft acrylics.

starwars star wars r2d2 costuem dome

The back of the dome


Homemade r2d2 costume

The front of the dome

I drilled two small holes in the top of the dome and used zip ties to attach it to the top of my son’s bike helmet. With a few adjustments it held perfectly and was easy to take on and off and was comfortable for a long period of wearing.

I cut the legs out of green styrofoam insulation, and then painted them with plain white drywall primer.

star wars costume r2d2 legs

The legs partially painted

I added some pieces of wood that I got from my scraps pile to add the technical-looking bits. Note that there was a rabbet notch cut along the bottom of the styrofoam to allow them to fit together if you’re putting them on the wall, and I didn’t pay attention to that when I started decorating the legs, so one is on the inside and one on the outside. “A man on a galloping horse won’t notice” as my Mom used to say.

starwars star wars droid costume

Legs with bits added

Some sharpie and blue paint made the legs look more recognizable:

star wars costume r2d2

Legs painted and decorated

I attached the legs by cutting small slits in the side of the hamper on either side of the wire spiral, cutting two holes in the foam leg, and feeding a zip tie through them both around the wire in the hamper. The top hole was through the wooden disk decoration so that was stable, but the bottom attachment lined up on plain foam. I didn’t want the zip tie to pull through the foam so I added a small bit of wood to support it.

r2d2 legs foam costume

One leg on


leg brace costume

Support for the lower leg zip tie

You can see in the photos at the top of the post that Jennifer added two shoulder straps made out of bias tape just sewed right to the hamper.

And voila.

star wars costume r2d2

Done!


starwars costume r2d2 back

And from the back


star wars costume r2d2

Done!


r2d2 costume

Beep beep boop squeal beep whistle

If I had had more time I would have added the copper coiled pipes at the bottom of the legs, but I’m quite happy with it as it is.

It was a good costume for here, because Josh could wear a warm coat and gloves under the costume and a hat under his bike helmet. He was perfectly comfortable while we walked around. It was a bit inconvenient to get in to the car to go to trick or treat at Grandma’s house, but that’s what minvans are for, right?

See also: Making a Han Solo Blaster Pistol

Thanks BuildLounge!

Bathroom: Day 9

14 Oct

Well, that was better.

I added some shims to the wood blocking behind the faucet. It ended up being an extra piece of 1×4 behind the main faucet and an extra piece of 1×4 and a piece of quarter inch plywood behind the pipes. Sorry, no photo of the blocking (I was so happy I forgot) but here’s the newly-moved faucet. Note the difference between this picture and yesterday’s.

Moen faucet install

Where it should be.

I didn’t want any more surprises, so I tried putting the faceplate on and attaching the handle, with a piece of tile to judge the right thickness. It worked like a charm.

Moen faucet spacing

Test fit. Success!

Then I managed to get the rest of the Durock concrete board up around the tub. Note the six inches of space at the top. A tile will overlap the seam between the Durock and the drywall by about 4 inches so there will be a two inch (or so) bit of drywall showing at the top, that will be painted. This allows us to use just full tiles, no cutting partial tiles. Much simpler to lay out.

Installed Durock

Concrete board, faucet and tub spout pipe

Drywall in the tub

Space for drywall

Lesson: The tub box is designed to be used to cover the tub during construction. I didn’t find this out until a couple of days into the reno. I added two fence boards (they come conveniently five feet long) as a sort of scaffold from corner to corner. I can now stand comfortably on the tub to do the work without fear of damaging the tub finish if I drop anything.

Bathtub box cover

Protect-o-tub

We stopped at Rona to pick up some more drywall to replace the stuff I ripped out yesterday, and to pick up a few other things. One of the important ones was Alkali Resistant fiberglass drywall tape. Apparently normal fiberglass drywall tape will get eaten by the alkali in mortar and cement board, so you need special tape to do the seams in cement board. The clerks at McDiarmid Lumber had never heard of it, and tried to sell me some special acrylic glue to spread on the board before I tape it to protect the tape, then some special chemicals to add to the mortar and then I just left. Rona had special Durock tape sitting right out with the normal drywall tape. Sometimes I wonder how McDiarmid stays in business. If it wasn’t a couple of minutes from my house (as opposed to 15 minutes to Home Depot and Rona) I’d never go there.

Lesson: This is a big one. GET A DRYWALL DIMPLER. A proper one. I think my “issues” with drywall are directly the result of having never heard of this. I used a normal screwdriver bit for a while, and had all sorts of trouble. I bought one of these:

Screwdriver bit for drywall

The wrong kind.

It was no better. It wrecks the screw heads and wears out in a very short time. It still rips the paper much of the time. (Okay, *I* rip the paper, but I wow, hate these things). Today I was in Rona buying some more drywall and I saw a proper dimpler.

Drywall dimpler

The right kind. BUY THIS.

It was $20, but it was the best $20 I have spent in a long time. I actually laughed with joy the first time I used it. You can drive a screw at full speed on the drill, and it goes “WHIRR CLICK” and pops off the screw and you have a perfectly set drywall screw with a nice circular divot around it. No worn screw head, no torn paper, no babying the screw for the last sixteenth of an inch. ZIP, WHIRR, CLICK and it’s done. I got the drywall around the bathtub up in minutes. I actually called Jennifer in to show her, I was so excited. It sounds kind of silly, and it might seem obvious to some who read this, but the difference is mind-blowing. I can’t imagine the amount of time I have wasted doing mediocre drywall work in the last few years because I simply hadn’t seen a $20 tool. Arg!

If you have any drywall to do, YOU MUST GET ONE OF THESE.


Cost for this Post:

1 trip to Rona

– $20.99 – Dimpler
– $1.99 – Knife blades (cement board and drywall are hard on blades, buy extras)
– $3.96 – spare drywall bits for the dimpler
$30.18 with taxes
—————
$20 — Durock fiber seaming tape
$70 — 5 sheets of moisture resistant drywall

Total for today: 120.18

Bathroom Renovation Main Page